Best thing to eat while Skiing in Nozawa Onsen - live rankings
I have made it my duty to try every single item offered on this ski mountain. The only way I will accept a repeat is if I ski so many days this season that no more options are available, which would honestly be pretty epic.
In the US, I like to judge a ski mountain on its chili. I think it’s frostbitten days learning to ski on the frigid Whiteface mountain that made me love chili so much. There’s nothing better than the tummy-warming sensation of a slow-cooked concoction of beans and meat while your toes begin to thaw and your cheeks tingle from being whipped by the cold wind. It’s even better with fries.
Well, chili isn’t a staple of Japanese food, and while I am forced to move on from that dose of comfort and instead try out a plethora of different options, I still believe that the essence of chili is what makes a good ski meal. It’s quick, warm, hardy, and delicious.
The food options on the mountain in Nozawa Onsen are miles ahead of what I am used to in the US. The most expensive thing I’ve seen on the menu is ¥1950(about $13.69). Beers are an additional ¥800 and are poured perfectly from a machine that is quite exciting to watch. All in all, a meal and a bev will cost you around $17 on the upper end of the spectrum. I think I spent $15 last year on just a small basket of fries at Vail. Out here I get delicious ramen, soba, donburi, curry, whatever, for way cheaper. It’s incredible. Here are the rankings so far:
#7.) Yamabiko Lodge: Meat Udon (item #30)
While is my least favorite item I’ve tried so far, that does not mean it’s bad. This bowl of hot udon comes served in a soy broth with slices of pork, a fish cake, and some chopped spring onion. I am not a huge fan of udon in general, I find the texture of the large noodles a bit slimy and would prefer ramen. So take this with a grain of salt. At ¥ 1050, it’s still a great bite mid-day on the slopes and is one of the cheaper options.
#6.) Yamabiko Lodge: Soy Sauce Noodle (item #25)
This bowl of Ramen comes in a soy sauce broth that is more delicious than a lot of similar varieties I’ve had the pleasure of trying. I ordered it with extra meat, and it came garnished with a fish cake, chopped spring onions, wakame seaweed, and bamboo shoots. It is very similar to the previous Udon dish, the main difference being the cut of pork. Not much else distinguishes it from the aforementioned dish, I just prefer Ramen.
#5.)Yamabiko Lodge: Curry and Rice with Pork Cutlet (item #3)
I really love Japanese curry. It’s milder in flavor and spice, and feels a bit hardier than curries from other cultures, making it a fantastic option to fill you up on the mountain. I expected this dish to be a shoo-in for a top spot, but it’s been edged out by some competitors for a few reasons. I have had way better curries than this one, and for ¥1500 it’s one of the more expensive dishes. Japanese curry is made with a roux, and the curry I ate in the lodge was a bit too floury. On the flip side, this is one of the largest portions you get. It’s a heartwarming meal that can keep you going for some afternoon laps.
#4.) Yamabiko Lodge: Spicy Nozawana and Teriyaki chicken pizza
You can find the pizzas in the downstairs section of Yamabiko. Ever since I saw them being advertised I knew I had to try it. This pizza was made fresh. I saw the guy working what looked like a high-hydration dough, pile on my toppings, and stick it in the oven. I was very impressed with the crust, which was Napoletano-esque and impressively light and airy. I was impressed by how they got it like this in the oven they were cooking in. The Spicy Nozawana and the Teriyaki Chicken paired great together as a white pizza. Nozawana is a hearty leaf vegetable, a variety of the mustard leaf that you see everywhere in this region of Japan. The main hindrance to this dish was the price point of ¥1950. It’s the most expensive thing I’ve encountered. Fun fact; it was voted 2nd best dish in the Nagano prefecture “Guerre Food Battle” 2017-2018! I presume this means for ski mountains, but my lack of Japanese is keeping me from saying for certain.
#3.) Yamabiko Lodge: Garlic Steak and Nozawana Rice (Item #1)
This dish was voted (drumroll please) the best dish in the Nagano Prefecture “Guerre Food Battle” 2013!!!!!!!!!! It’s up there with the largest portioned dish I’ve had and is served with a salad and a cup of mushroom broth. It’s a strip of steak seared and topped with a yummy ginger sauce and crispy garlic flakes. The nozawana rice is amazing. It’s a well-rounded meal, but it will cost you ¥1800. I think you get what you paid for in terms of quality and quantity with this one, it will have you stoking to get back on the mountain, but it doesn’t place higher because it takes a bit of time to prepare, and lacks that critically needed comfort that I am searching for.
#2.) Yamabiko Lodge: Miso Noodle (Item #6)
Just missing out on the top spot is this bowl of Miso ramen. I’ve gathered that this is the style of Ramen served most in this area and if I am to trust Apple’s translator, it is called Ogiya Ramen. It is served in an almost creamy miso broth with sprouts and corn. To think I paid only ¥1000 (about $7) for this on a ski hill is mind-boggling. It’s the cheapest thing on the menu at Yamabiko but it should not be treated as less than in any way. I ate this and immediately wanted to do a backflip.
#1.) Yamabiko Lodge: Teriyaki Chicken Donburi
This dish checks every box. Donburi is a style of Japanese food that means something (meat, vegetable, etc.) on top of rice. This one comes with a generous portion of teriyaki chicken that fills you up, excites your taste buds, and gets you amped for an afternoon of skiing all at the same time. It’s the largest portion of food I’ve been served and also comes with a complementary bowl of miso soup that resonates so fine on a cold day. It is simply a perfect ski meal. Quick, easy, filling, and delicious. It’s going to be hard not to repeat this order.
Honorable Mention: Kim Cheese Toastie from the Craft Room
Located right below the Nagasaka Gondola, the craft room is a brewery at which I will spend way too much money on IPAs. Fuck it. Their Kim Cheese Toastie at ¥700 yen is arguably better than anything on this list, but since it’s not on the mountain, I cannot in good conscience officially rank it. The positive to it not being on the list is that I feel no remorse repeating this order, so I have already had 3 and those numbers are sure to rise.
